Khushi Shah, Creative director & co-founder, Shanti Banaras
Image: Madhu Kapparath; Directed By: Kapil Kashyap Background Image: Shutterstock
Shanti Banaras, a luxury brand that sells designer Banarasi sarees, lehengas, and other Indian clothing, was born out of a recognition of the decline of real zari—an intricate weaving technique using real gold and silver threads—in Banarasi sarees, which is increasingly overshadowed by the powerloom industry and mass production.
“Shanti was created to fill this niche—dedicated to preserving this unique craftsmanship and offering it as a luxurious, timeless investment in an increasingly mass-produced world,” says Khushi Shah, creative director and co-founder of Shanti Banaras.
From the fourth generation of a family that has been involved in the business of handwoven Banarasi sarees, Shah, who grew up in Banaras (Varanasi), still recalls accompanying her grandfather through the narrow alleys of Ramnagar to meet the master weavers and watch them at their looms, creating intricate Banarasi textiles using the traditional kadiyal and uchant weaving techniques. She would also go to their wholesale manufacturing store often. “I caught the pulse of the market at a very young age, and I knew that after completing my education, this was what I wanted to dive into.”
Even before joining college, Shah was actively involved in shaping Shanti’s brand identity development and positioning. “My education at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), New York, gave me a deep understanding of the global luxury market and the technical nuances of textiles, enabling me to identify the untapped opportunity to revive the art of real zari—a symbol of heritage, making each saree a valuable heirloom.”
Shanti Banaras is an extension of a wholesale manufacturing brand called YNGS, started as a pop-up in Varanasi in 2015 by the family, which was taken forward with a Shanti Banaras retail boutique in 2019 by her brother Amrit Shah. The brand also has retailing outlets in Delhi and Mumbai.
Her brother now handles the wholesale business and design aspect, while she has been involved in the conceptualisation, brand identity development and marketing of the Shanti Banaras retail stores. “Every day it’s a constant effort to change the visual narrative, to change the experience at the store and the entire experience of buying a Banarasi saree,” says Shah.
Unlike a traditional Banarasi saree store with gaddas (mattresses) on the floor, Shah wants to provide the experience of a luxurious premium jewellery brand. “At the stores, our thoroughly trained staff explains the concept of real zari,” says Shah. Along with every purchase, the buyers are given a certificate of authenticity. “The experience is akin to buying a precious product like a piece of jewellery.”
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Shah is consciously trying to break away from the stereotypical association of Banarasi silks with an older and traditional generation by changing the narrative and showing her brand through a modern lens. By changing the visual imagery and styling in her campaigns, she has also been successful in attracting a younger audience towards the brand.
According to Shah, the younger generation often lacks awareness of what ‘sacchi zari’ truly means. Shah has been hosting pop-up events in various cities within India to meet her customers and increase awareness about real zari.
Going forward, Shah says, “We will invest in blockchain to verify the authenticity of every real zari piece, making it traceable and transparent. We also plan to create NFTs of exclusive saree designs and Banarasi motifs. The brand aims to partner with auction houses like Christie’s and Sotheby’s, showcasing limited edition real zari pieces as collectible luxury items.
“Our artisans remain at the heart of Shanti. We’ll create programmes and a physical artisan village and museum to preserve traditional weaving techniques.”
“We are trying to give these timeless pieces the spotlight they deserve and putting Banarasi handloom at the forefront of fashion. This is how we are turning heritage into a global statement.”
Sunil Sethi, chairman of the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), who has closely followed Shah’s journey with Shanti Banaras, says, “I am truly impressed by her entrepreneurial acumen. Despite being at a relatively nascent stage, she has taken bold strides, from establishing a retail presence to participating in B2C exhibitions, showcasing her commitment.”
What impresses him the most is the marketing, which is very subtle and discreet, with the focus on handloom textiles and the city of Banaras rather than heavily promoting the brand itself. “These elements align beautifully with the flavour of the decade, reflecting a deep understanding of contemporary consumer preferences and a commitment to preserving heritage.”
Khushi Shah (25)
Creative director &
co-founder, Shanti Banaras
(This story appears in the 07 February, 2025 issue
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